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I'm excited to take this Beyond Threads Webinar (I'm a fan of any of Nicole Basset's endeavors!)
This post is not sponsored but contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of my links, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!
After 10 years in the States, it was high time I visited Mexico. For years, I've dreamed of getting to see through my own eyes the works of indigenous makers, potters, weavers, and natural dyers. And the opportunity finally presented itself this fall.
I did a lot of research, talked to friends, and enlisted my foodie husband to plan (but not too much) our first trip abroad (besides visiting family in Europe) since our stopover in Iceland in 2015.
Here's what we did during our 4.5 days in Oaxaca de Juárez and 2.5 days in Puerto Escondido in early November.
Travel Tips
Mexico's the 28th country I got to cross off my list. I was a seasoned traveler in my 20s but needed to get back into "one bag" packing mode.
I've visited a few countries in South America, and this was my first time in Central America.
I'm proud to say that there is not much I would change as to what I planned or packed as you'll see when you read along.
Packing
We traveled with carry-ons only, but saved the option to check a bag on our return flight (spoiler alert: we did not need to).
Lightweight Duffel Bag (optional) - To store in your carry-on on the way in and to check on the way back if you made many purchases.
Luggage lock - To protect the extra purchases you'll store in your duffel bag.
Money belt (optional) - I hear they can be convenient
Outlets are the same as the standard North American ones, so we didn't need to bring an adapter.
As for clothing, I packed:
Summer clothes for this early November trip, with a warm layer for the evening (and the air-conditioned bus): 4 dresses (long and short), the set pictured above, this linen vest and pant set, another pair of linen pants, 2 tees, 1 DIY tie top, 1 cotton sweater, 1 cashmere cardigan.
We left our warm jackets in our car when our friends dropped us off at the airport (thank you D and M), and wore our somewhat warm outfits as airport and travel outfits.
I put solid shampoo and soap in tins as these were not provided in our first Airbnb.
We did not bring refillable water bottles since we didn't know how often we'd have access to drinking water. So we bought bottled water upon arrival and refilled our bottles whenever possible.
I (thankfully) brought a first aid kit. I'd recommend packing Lomotil and electrolyte tablets if anyone's susceptible to suffering from Traveler's Diarrhea.
Money
If you haven't exchanged money before your trip, withdraw money at an ATM at the airport, before exiting into the public area of the airport. Alternatively, if you have a connecting flight in the country, withdraw cash at the first airport you land at in Mexico.
I read that, if the option is offered at the ATM, you should decline the exchange rate and let your bank apply it. Do your research.
Also, don't be surprised, the symbol used for Mexican pesos is also $ 😄
We paid by card for restaurant reservations we had made online. Otherwise, cash was our main means of payment (taxis only accept cash).
Safety
I'm a cautious traveler wherever I go. Here are some tips I follow everywhere I go:
Don't carry unnecessary valuables. Don't keep them visible.
Language
I speak Spanish fluently, so I had no issues communicating. I also compiled a glossary of regionalisms, local ingredients, and dishes by studying menus ahead of time.
Most people we interacted with also spoke English and menus were often bilingual at restaurants and cafés.
Just in case, the Google translate app is always on the homepage of my phone (the camera translator is pretty handy for menus).
It was tucked away in a courtyard at the back of a café. Central, quiet, with great breakfast options across the courtyard.
Drinking water was available at a fountain outside the front door.
The hostess was the sweetest, I'd book with her again without hesitation. I know she has other units available as well.
Transportation
Colectivos (from the airport to your accommodation)
Buy a ticket from the booth right before the exit from the Oaxaca airport. Depending on which zone your accommodation is located, you'll pay a flat rate. You'll pay around 140 pesos per person to go to the city center.
The colectivos are lined up outside. Show your ticket, and tell the driver your address. He'll tell you which van to hop on, and he'll drop you off at your accommodation on his route.
Download the Didi app, it will start working once you're in Mexico. The app will give you an idea of how much a ride will cost. You'll pay the driver in cash.
It only works in central areas (not to come back into town from Monte Alban, for example).
Regular taxis
Flag taxis on the street or, more likely, they will honk to check whether you need their services.
Upon entering, always ask: ¿Cuánto me cobras para ir a ... ? (How much do you charge to go to...?)
Breakfast / Coffee
Marito&Moglie (Instagram) - My favorite. I went back there one afternoon when Octave wasn't feeling well. I even got their branded tee, my kind of travel souvenir!
Muss (coffee) / Amá Terraza (lunch) - They're located in the same building, Amá Terraza is a... terrace atop the building, the architecture and view are unbeatable.
Café Rústiko (Instagram) - That's the café we had to cross to get to our Airbnb, with great breakfast and lunch options.
Pan Con Madre (Instagram) - We stopped there for breakfast on our way to Monte Albán. The pastry selection was on point!
We ate our first chapulines (grasshoppers) there! They gradually shut the roof and turned on the lights as the night descended, the architecture was incredible!
My expectations were pretty high, and this was our last dinner before leaving the country. It was disappointing, our questions remained mostly unanswered, we expected more from a restaurant where most of the experience was seeing your dish prepared in front of your eyes.
They have a wide variety of massages, including pre-Hispanic techniques. The (deep tissue) massage itself was amazing, but there was unfortunately construction outside the window which made for not such a peaceful experience. Contact them ahead of time and inquire about that.
What's next on our list:
Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca
It had unexpectedly closed to visitors the day we planned on touring it.
La Jícara - This might be my favorite place in town. As you know, I have a slight obsession with zines and this was the place to be.
IAGO - I stopped by one evening, but wish I had met earlier the friends we made a few days later as this place seems to also be a zine trove!
Cuatro Triángulos - This spot was recommended by our new friends, and we were greeted with shots of mezcal!
Pottery
Taller Ruiz López (Monday - Friday) - We went there on a weekend so we did not get to see many artisans at work, but an older lady gave us a quick tour and we were able to shop a few small bowls that we were able to safely pack in our carry-ons for the way back home.
Mercado de Artesanías de Santa María Atzompa - A few blocks North of the Ruiz López workshop. It was easier to flag a taxi from there.
There's a somewhat new highway that makes it easy to travel from Oaxaca de Juárez to Puerto Escondido in a little over 3 hours by bus. Bring a sweater for the air-conditioned journey.
There are bathrooms at the bus stations and on the bus. Book front seats if you have motion sickness, though the roads were super smooth.
Octave had had this café on his list since he watched this video. We went back 2 days in a row and got a chance to talk to the owner, Gustavo. Octave and he ended up geeking about coffee, sustainability, what it means to be an organic farm, and so much more. I hope we'll get to visit the farm and stay there one day.
Sandala Café
Good breakfast, but not on my list of recommendations, it was full of remote workers...
Beaches
We walked 40 minutes along the shoreline from Finca Las Nieves to Playa Carrizalillo.
Playa Carrizalillo
You go down many steps and end up on the most precious "secluded-looking" beach. We found a spot in the shade and I went to play in the waves, a beautiful morning, well worth the hike in the sun!
On our last day, we went to get breakfast by the beach, walked to Finca Las Nieves for a last coffee, grabbed croissants for the bus ride at French bar and restaurant Cyrill, retrieved our suitcases at the Airbnb, and took a taxi to the bus station.
In Oaxaca, we had our last dinner at CRUDO and headed to our hotel by the airport for a short night before our early flight.
There is so much more I need to see and learn from this wonderful place. While I prepare for my next visit, I'm following the work of all the amazing artists I met and discovered while I was there, I keep pinning locations on my map, and I read and reread all the cool zines I purchased on my trip.
¡Hasta pronto, Mexico!
Have you traveled to Oaxaca? Any tips you'd like to share?
Two events I'm gonna attend in Central Oregon this month, both hosted by friends of mine: Dance Hohm at The Belfry on 12/8 and Songs of Solstice on 12/16 (use code SONGAH for 20% off).
This post is not sponsored but contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of my links, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!
This iconic healing retreat and conference center "promotes holistic health and spiritual growth, and facilitates the gathering of people in celebration of the experience of life".
For Thanksgiving, I decided to book a day pass for Octave and me, so we could spend a day soaking in healing waters and reflecting on what we're grateful for.
Although the website is full of information, I did a lot of research ahead of time and ultimately decided to compile it all in one page for Day Use visitors to this magical place.
Don't be scared by the "Know before you go section". Although it seems rather strict, it ultimately leads to a very quiet, respectful and seamless experience.
So here's everything you need to know to spend a perfect day at Breitenbush Hot Springs, whether on a sunny summer day, or a snowy winter day, from driving directions to packing list, amenities descriptions to lunch options.
You'll be given a map of the grounds and an explanation of the facilities.
Park your car and grab your things.
Leave your valuables in your car, see below.
Leave your bags and clothes in the Lodge Lobby.
There are rows of coat hangers, cubbies for shoes, and surfaces to put your bags on.
You can change in the restrooms, located on the left-hand side of the Lodge Lobby.
In between soaks, or during lunchtime, you can leave your towels to dry on heaters in the Lodge Lobby. Once dry, the towels are stored in a bin close by to make room for wet ones.
There's also a possibility to rent towels (ask upon arrival), and there's a dedicated bin for these as well in the Lodge Lobby.
Lunch
Lunch is not included, but you can add it during your reservation or via email later.
The buffet-style meals are vegetarian and mostly organic. A special diet option of low gluten, no egg, no dairy (cross-contamination is possible), is available (select this option during your reservation.)
No caffeinated beverages are served with meals (coffee is available for purchase at the Gift Shop in the Lodge). The day I went, a cup of non-caffeinated warm maple chai was on the menu.
In the Dining Room, you can find hot water 24/7, along with coffee creamers, sweeteners, and complimentary herbal teas.
A bell rings when the meal is ready (lunch is usually from 1 - 2 pm). The Dining Hall fills up quickly so I'd recommend having an early lunch to make sure no options run out.
You can pack your lunch
There's a fridge available to store in the lefthand part of the Lodge Lobby. Label your items with your name and departure date.
Keep in mind that no alcohol, meat, or fish are allowed in or around the Lodge.
Coffee is available for purchase at the Gift Shop in the Lodge.
Amenities
A map will be provided upon arrival, so you can locate all the amenities.
Personal Hygiene
The restrooms, showers, and bathhouse are indicated on the map, as well as the drinking water stations.
Three meadow pools: Near, Middle, and Silent (increasingly warm)
Sauna and cold plunge
Four spiral tubs: Aligned in the four cardinal directions, the four Spiral Tubs vary in temperature. Ranging from 100 to 110 degrees and ending with a cold water dip.
In the same area as the Spiral Tubs, you'll find individual clawfoot tubs you can fill to soak in, and empty once you're done.
Relaxing
Massage
You can book a massage ahead of time or upon arrival (slots available are displayed on a board in the Lodge Lobby).
Lodge Lobby
There are couches where you can rest and read. There's a wide selection of books available to borrow.
I hope this guide will answer most of your questions. As always you can refer to the FAQs or email the office.
I can't wait to come back for a visit, maybe alone, with my yoga mat and a good book...
Are you inspired to visit more hot springs? I highly recommend a trip to Summer Lake Hot Springs. You can also check out my Oregon and my Travel sections.
This post is not sponsored but contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through one of my links, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!
